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Fort Collins Motorcycle Travel Examiner

Installing a Reduced Effort Clutch kit (Easy Clutch)

October 15, 2:50 PMFort Collins Motorcycle Travel ExaminerAbby Clabough
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Getting started on the project

I'd like to start off by saying that I've never felt the need for an easy clutch. Squeezing the clutch had never been an issue for me. At least not until I had surgery to repair three torn ligaments on my left wrist. When I first wrote this article for Biker Chick Magazine, I was sure I'd get the strength back to use my stock clutch at some point, but I didn't want to wait that long. Because I wanted to ride as soon as possible, I bit the bullet and decided to go with the installation.

At first I assumed it would go to a dealership for the installation. Then all the guys at Bike Talk started telling me how easy it was, and I looked at the instructions as well as my service manual and decided I could do it. I did asked a friend for assistance, as well as the use of some tools.

The following is a description on the installation of an Easy Clutch on a 2001 Softail Standard (FXST). This is not intended to take the place of your service manual and kit instructions; the purpose is more to give you an idea of what things will look like, and to show that the Easy Clutch is just that... easy.

Tools/Materials/Documentation required

  • '99 - '05 Twin Cam Harley-Davidson
  • Service Manual for the motorcycle being used in this project
  • Lift for the motorcycle
  • Reduced effort clutch kit, H-D part #: 36808-05 (about $45)
  • Gaskets (about $20) Derby cover gasket
  • Inspection cover gasket
  • Transmission clutch release cover gasket
  • O-ring for the transmission drain plug
  • O-ring for the transmission filler plug (optional)
  • One quart of transmission lubricant
  • Set of Torx drivers
  • Set of hex head drivers (or set of hex keys)
  • SAE sockets (and one 10mm socket)
  • Ratchet
  • Torque wrench
  • Snap ring pliers
 

Loosening the primary cover bolts

The easy-clutch instructions say to remove the primary cover. It isn't necessary. I started to do it, but after removing the derby cover it appeared it could be done through there. That was confirmed after calling my friend Chuck in Texas. That saved a big mess and the need for a gasket. Because I had already started to remove the primary cover and had drained the case, I got a primary oil change in addition to the easy clutch installation. Note the handy magnetic parts tray stuck to the frame, which is holding everything that comes off. Those things rock!

 

Partially disassembling the clutch hub

The directions say to "partially disassemble" the clutch hub. OK, so how far disassembled is "partially"? After removing the 6 bolts and that brass-looking ring (1 more use for a 10mm wrench on a Harley), it was apparent that was as far as I needed to go. The big round spring with the spikes in the middle of it was the thing I needed to replace, and it was right there.

 

Inserting the new spring

Replacing the spring was easy. Look at how the ring clips into the spring before you pull the ring off. It isn't rocket science. The ring goes right back on with the 6 bolts you took off seconds earlier. Getting the spring and the ring back in through the derby cover requires a little squeezing and force, but it does fit. After you bolt that back on, replace the derby cover with the new gasket. You're all done with that side. Now on to the transmission...

 

Draining the transmission

First thing to do with the transmission is to drain the oil. You have to remove the filler plug first so it drains freely. This was a mess. The drain plug is right smack in the middle of the bottom of the transmission, and on the Softail, that means you have to go up though the shocks. Between the time you get the plug out and get whatever it is you're draining the oil into under there, a lot can spill out. I hope that oil covering the forearm isn't dangerous and will only help moisturize the skin.

 

Draining the transmission

You'll probably need to remove the exhaust to get the transmission cover off. Once you do this, use snap ring pliers to remove the ring, which then allows you to replace the two parts needed to finish the job. Over here, you're replacing the ramp.

 


Stock and replacement ramps

The ramps are very similar; it's difficult to tell the stock from the replacement. When the lever is squeezed, the ramp rolls on the balls. One of the things that makes the clutch lever easier to squeeze is the angle of the grooves that the balls roll in. It was clear how this all fit together. After installing the new ramp, the transmission cover was bolted back on, oil added, and test drive completed.

Installing the easy clutch kit had made it possible to ride with an injured left hand. The kit itself costs about $40; gaskets and oil add a little more to the expense. Well worth it.

 

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