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On Saturday, though, you can celebrate a piece of Little Italy that stands like the immovable invalidObjectTag against the unstoppable force. The Italian Athletic Club turns 90 and the members are throwing themselves a birthday party. The Festa Coloniale Italiana banquet commences with a cocktail hour at 5 p.m. and if you're non-member willing to part with the 55 bucks burning a hole in your pocket, you're in. (If you're a member, the nick is a mere 45 clams.)
For that double fin you'll get a feedbag featuring assorted Italian appetizers (antipasti, focaccia, etc.), insalata, pasta, a slab of roast beef, dessert, coffee and vino.
Accordionist George Campi will serenade during the cocktail hour and the Aurora Mandolin Orchestra will carry you through dinner. Dessert features Frank, Dean and Sammy as "The Rat Pack Is Back," and the mind reels.
The main thing, though, is to celebrate nine decades of this bedrock North Beach institution. In a sea of shifting currents, the IAC sticks out on Washington Square like the prow of a clipper ship.
Reservations are essential, so call 415-781-0166 if you want to make the scene.


